Loudoun County, Virginia
Compared to the other regions we’ve visited, the Loudoun County wine region offers something quite different, but special. Instead of a hot, Mediterranean climate, Virginia is a warmer temperate climate. Loudoun is nestled between the Appalachian mountain range to the west, and the Potomac river to the northeast, and it sits approximately 40 miles outside of D.C. proper. This region is known as an up-and-coming region in the wine industry due to its youth on the global stage. It has recently been revolutionized by experienced winemakers who have increased its quality in wine. They have begun to take more methodical approaches, deviating from the original sweet and fruity wine portfolio, to make world-class dry wines which express Virginia flavor. Often times you will find white wines that are typically single varietal and red wines that show best as blends.
One notable advancement is the planting of more Bordeaux varietals, since Loudoun shares similar characteristics to that iconic region. The most planted and common grape varieties are the bordeaux grapes: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot, tannat, and sauvignon blanc. The other noble french varieties grown are viognier and chardonnay. There are other notable grapes, such as albarino, petit manseng, and vidal blanc, that show very well in the Northern Virginia region; however, one has to look a bit harder to find a good example of these grapes. There are a number of growers planting many other Vitis vinifera (the grape species used predominantly in winemaking) in the region. Some of the varieties thrive well due to microclimates nestled within the mountain ranges, like syrah, while others are still in the experimental stage.
This region is being revolutionized each day. Winemakers, viticulturists, and owners alike are approaching the region with knowledge and experience to better every aspect of Virginia wine. At the forefront is vineyard site selection. With the help of the Wine Research Exchange (WRE) and the Virginia Tech Viticultural program led by Tony Wolf, modern viticultural techniques are being implemented to optimize vineyard quality in the region. Sites are now meticulously selected to mitigate pests, water logged soils, plant diseases, and deleterious plant life. They are also selected for desirable microclimates, where protection from extreme weather is necessary in the region. This has caused more plantings of mountain fruit in the Blue Ridge, Catoctin, and Short Hill mountain ranges. These ranges also have catoctin clay, catoctin complexes, granite, and limestone soil, adding complexity to vineyard site selection that manifests in the glass.
Winemaking has improved as well. Winemakers are cultivating healthy ferments and maturing wine appropriately through modern techniques like antioxidant additives, pectinases, cold soaking, and controlled extended maceration. Depending upon the winery, this can involve either minimal intervention or a more hands-on approach. Finally, the break from the California standard of big bodied, heavily extracted wines has brought a finesse and elegance to wines from Loudoun. Wines tend to be more complex in their structure, when made properly. Most comparable to Bordeaux, although not quite at the prowess, they tend to exhibit more old world tendencies, more herbaceous spice notes, and more earthy tones. Some perceive quality wines as being smoky and forest-like, with a touch of wildness to its character. There are also plenty of red and dark fruits that burst from the glass, giving this area a distinct taste.
My favorite part about this region, and what I believe comes out in their wines, is a sense of comradery and comfort. All wine professionals here in Virginia look out for each other and help one another to the best of their ability. The view of wine is more old school in this region, where passionate families craft wine through years of cultivating and perfecting their product. It is a resilient and adaptable region where viticulturists, winemakers, and owners navigate through unparalleled challenges to make this region worth exploring. This attitude and approach is what I love most about Virginia wine country and why there is such distinct character from one estate to the next.
When navigating the wine lists and wine varieties of Virginia, you should look at the producer’s style of wine first and foremost. Next, visit the winery and ask about the vineyard sites. I think the most important and distinguishing feature of Virginia wines is the vineyard site selection. For example, a wine from flat Catoctin greenstone will be different from that same soil on the mountain or Catoctin soil laced with granite veins. Much of this has to do with soil drainage, cationic exchange capacity, soil fertility, organic matter and much that is unknown about how the soil allows for different flavors to manifest in the wine. Once you discern the former and taste through different wines, the last thing to ask yourself is: Do you like it? If you don’t, try something different. There are plenty of different styles found in Northern Virginia. Expect from Loudoun County wines a smoky, brambley, and, if young, sometimes grapey aroma. The hardest challenge for you will be finding those exquisite wines. Many wineries tend to reserve their best lots to their club members. But, you still can find a plethora of quality wines in the region if you know what to look for,and in the coming years the wine is only going to get better.